In the vast, semi-arid plains of the Karoo, herds of angora goats roam freely across expansive farmland, forming the backbone of a global textile industry built on one of the world’s most prized natural fibres mohair.
This sparsely populated region in South Africa produces more than half of the world’s mohair, a fibre valued for its sheen, durability, and softness. The industry has turned the Karoo into a strategic hub for luxury fashion supply chains.
A Legacy Industry Rooted in Generations
On farms like Wheatlands, established in the early 20th century, mohair production is both a livelihood and a family tradition. Farmers such as Lloyd Short, a seventh-generation producer, manage thousands of angora goats across thousands of hectares.
Each goat yields between one and 1.5 kilograms of mohair annually, with the highest-quality fibre coming from the first two shearings. These premium fibres can fetch up to 900 South African rand per kilogram, underscoring their value in global markets.
Luxury textile manufacturers, including Italy’s renowned Vitale Barberis Canonico, source South African mohair for high-end fabrics, often blending it with wool to produce premium garments.
Global Supply Chain and Market Influence
According to industry data, South Africa accounted for approximately 56 percent of global mohair production in 2024. The sector supports around 30,000 jobs, many of them in rural Karoo communities.
Major brokers such as House of Fibre and OVK dominate the supply chain, controlling more than 70 percent of global distribution. Neighboring Lesotho contributes an additional share, reinforcing southern Africa’s dominance in the industry.
Processing remains highly specialized, with companies like Samil and Stucken handling not only local output but also fibres imported from countries such as Australia and the United Kingdom.
Animal Welfare Concerns and Industry Reform
The industry faced significant backlash in 2018 after People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals released footage alleging animal cruelty during shearing. The incident prompted major global retailers including H&M, Gap, Zara, and Topshop to suspend mohair sourcing.
In response, the sector introduced stricter animal welfare standards, including independent audits and certification systems. These reforms have helped restore confidence among international buyers and protect the industry’s reputation.
“Farmers now undergo annual audits and third-party inspections,” said Marco Coetzee of Mohair South Africa, emphasizing increased accountability across the supply chain.
A Specialised Fibre with Global Demand
Mohair’s unique properties its strength, resistance to shrinking, and distinctive lustre continue to sustain global demand despite competition from synthetic fibres and emerging producers.
Industry leaders note that processing mohair requires advanced technical expertise, giving established producers in South Africa a competitive advantage over newer entrants, including manufacturers in Asia.
As global fashion brands increasingly prioritize traceability and ethical sourcing, the Karoo’s mohair industry is positioning itself as both a heritage sector and a modern, regulated supply chain balancing tradition with evolving consumer expectations.
